Šibenik

The ABC Tour

Mike has always joked that he is on the ABC Tour. That stands for, Another Blessed Cathedral. In many ways he is right. We have visited the main cathedral or church in every city we have traveled too. However, there are reasons other than my just wanting to light candles.

Many of the cathedrals or church’s we have entered have been around for hundreds of years, some going back as far as the 13th Century. Many of these places of worship were sponsored by the wealthiest patrons of their time so no expense was spared in the decoration or the carvings that can be found inside their walls. These are not modern buildings with stucco drywalls and simple stained glass windows or paint by number paintings. Many of the places we have toured have sculptures and deities leaping from the walls, chiseled in their glory to make them feel like they are alive; they have medieval stained glass windows that tell a story or gives praise to the people who helped to protect the church; they are filled with wooden ceilings and golden altars and even in some cases scientific advancements.

 

This stained glass window in the Church of Perth, Scotland shows the legendary Black Watch regiment,  Scotland's elite military regiment whose history stretches back almost three centuries.   © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

This stained glass window in the Church of Perth, Scotland shows the legendary Black Watch regiment, Scotland’s elite military group whose history stretches back almost three centuries. © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

In other words many of the churches and Cathedrals we have entered are really works of art unto themselves and they should be photographed and visited. I prefer visiting a city’s main Cathedral sometimes more than its main museum.

 

This is the ceiling in the Church of St. Francis in Sibenik, Croatia which dates back to the 13th Century.  The ceiling is made of wood and the paintings date from 1674.  © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

This is the ceiling in the Church of St. Francis in Sibenik, Croatia which dates back to the 13th Century. The ceiling is made of wood and the paintings date from 1674. © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

Mike was raised Protestant, I was raised Roman Catholic. Mike wasn’t overly what you would call religious when we met so when I first told him that I wanted to visit the main Cathedral or Church in every city we visited he thought it was some sort of pilgrimage thing or something. Then he learned that I didn’t care if the church was Roman Catholic, Protestant, Episcopalian or a Mosque; church’s and religious houses of worship are really testaments to great art.

This mosque is located in Mostar, Bosnia-Herzegovina.  It was the first time either of us had entered a Mosque and it was beautiful in its décor and simplicity.  © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

This mosque is located in Mostar, Bosnia-Herzegovina. It was the first time either of us had entered a Mosque and it was beautiful in its décor and simplicity. © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

 

Sometimes the artwork begins well before you enter the church.  This is one of the doors that enter The Vatican in Rome, Italy.  © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

Sometimes the artwork begins well before you enter the church. This is one of the doors that enter The Vatican in Rome, Italy. © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

 

The main altar in the Cathedral in Taxco, Mexico is covered in gold leaf and sculptures.  © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

The main altar in the Cathedral in Taxco, Mexico is covered in gold leaf and sculptures. © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

 

At famous Rosslyn Chapel, Edinburgh, Scotland (of Da Vinci Code fame) the sculptures are part of the façade and leap out at you as you get close to the entrance of the chapel.   © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

At famous Rosslyn Chapel, Edinburgh, Scotland (of Da Vinci Code fame) the sculptures are part of the façade and leap out at you as you get close to the entrance of the chapel. © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

 

Gold leaf fills this church, not just the main altar, in Monreale, Sicily.   © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

Gold leaf fills this church, not just the main altar, in Monreale, Sicily. © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

 

Sometimes the main church's are used for ceremonies.  Changing of the guard happens in the Cathedral in Buenos Aires, Argentina because the remains of Argentina's most loved general resides here; General José de San Martín.  © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

Sometimes the main church’s are used for ceremonies. Changing of the guard happens in the Cathedral in Buenos Aires, Argentina because the remains of Argentina’s most loved general resides here; General José de San Martín. © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

 

After traveling for over three years and entering well over 100 church’s or Cathedrals he now has come to enjoy exploring them as much as I. In fact when we get to a new city one of the first places he pinpoints on a map is the nearest church and/or Cathedral. Maybe he can be a convert after all…

 

Florence Lince

http://www.about.me/florencelince

Advertisements

Marenda

Or No, This Isn’t a Local Dance; It’s a Way of Life

Tucked away on a side street in Sibenik, away from the maddening crowds, sits the little restaurant of Marenda.  Inside this quiet local restaurant there are places for perhaps 20 people to sit.  Many come here on a warm summer day or evening to sit along the outdoor sidewalk and enjoy the old traditions of Croatia.

Owner Veselka Hazalin gets to her kitchen early (7:00am) and begins to prepare the foods that offer real comfort to old time Croatians.  Here she makes prsut, corned beef brisket, sir, pancetta, and more.  They serve wine right from the barrel and people from around Sibenik come here to drink and talk and share memories of their lives.  The owners, as so many people do here in Croatia, make their own olive oil and I can attest to how wonderful it was.

Veselka Hazalin, owner of Marenda and Olivera Slavisa, our friend and guide

Veselka Hazalin, owner of Marenda and Olivera Slavica, our friend and guide. © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

On the day we visited, and with our friend and guides Nina Belamaric and Olivera Slavica leading the way we were served a dish made from barley and beans with fresh olive oil; brisket, olives, onion, and crusty bread.  What surprised them and our hostess was when I told them that I had grown up eating the barley dish.   Every December 13th (St. Lucy’s feast day, or eating St. Lucy’s Wheat) my grandmother and mother would make this dish and its always been one of my favorites, even down to serving it warm with the olive oil.   I eat barley as a hot cooked cereal as often as possible when I can find it.  In Scotland I found bags of it because people make whiskey from it.  In Panama I found the barley but people thought of it as poor man’s food.  I’ll take poor man’s food over today’s fast food anytime.  Anyway the dish was wonderful and yes, this would be considered a vegan / vegetarian meal.  Mike and the ladies had their dish served with pork which is tradition.  My dish was made special for me since I do not eat meat.  However the restaurant offers one new and different vegetable dish every day in the summer season so you can realistically eat here every day and never eat the same meal twice.

Love this dish. Barley, beans and fresh olive oil. Food good enough for kings.

Love this dish. Barley, beans and fresh olive oil. Food good enough for kings. © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

Accompanying the meal was a platter of cut corned beef.  Again, to their surprise we knew what this meat was and we explained how we cooked corned beef; in a stew format with potatoes, cabbage and carrots (for St. Patty’s day for all our Irish friends).

Corned beef brisket, one of Mike's favorites.

Corned beef brisket, one of Mike’s favorites. © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

Marenda began many years ago in Croatia when the farmers, who work long hours in the fields in Croatia (in every country – thank you farmers!) needed something substantial too eat while working in the fields.  Marenda is a wide assortment of foods from cooked beef and ribs to barley stews and cheeses and prosciuttos and olives.  Sadly people everywhere consider this to be simple and poor man’s food.  I consider it food for the ages and of kings.  One can eat incredibly simple but well. We have lost sight of what food was and is for when we think of this food as simple and poor man’s food.

These cured olives also came from the owners fields and they were just like grandma used to make. Served with marinated onions and crusty bread I could have made of meal of these alone!

These cured olives also came from the owners fields and they were just like grandma used to make. Served with marinated onions and crusty bread I could have made a meal of these alone! © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

The restaurant is open from 8:00am to around 4:00 or 5:00pm during the winter months and open until midnight during the summer.  It has been open in this location over 40 years.  This is a place that tourists would never frequent unless they have a local to tell them about it.  The menu may be simple but the food is first rate.  And isn’t that the hallmark of a good restaurant.

We have always felt more at home in the small local restaurants.

We have always felt more at home in the small local restaurants. © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

The lesson here is that food prepared the old fashioned way is more memorable and longer lasting than fast food made for the masses.  Many locals come here after a hard days work to buy take away containers filled with home cooking instead of going out for a fast food burger.  I applaud them for their choice.

We love simple.  When we travel we don’t look for fast food places to eat at.  We understand why tourists eat at them but that isn’t for us and we don’t patronize them in foreign countries.  Those places do not represent how these countries were founded or what their people eat.

Of course there are traditional desserts as well. What meal would be complete without a little something sweet?

Of course there are traditional desserts as well. What meal would be complete without a little something sweet? © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

I don’t know about you but I always look for small local restaurants to eat at because the old saying really does apply here; the best surprises really do come in small packages.

Florence Lince

http://www.about.me/florencelince

Unwrapping Gifts

Or Something Special Around Every Corner 

Have you ever walked a celestial labyrinth?  Up until last week I hadn’t either.  Then, on a beautiful winter day here in Sibenik, Croatia, I was invited to walk the Labyrinth of Wisdom built by famed labyrinth maker Adrian Predrag Kezele and donated to the people of Croatia by Marina Baranovic.

Mike with our hostess, Marina Baranovic.

Mike with our hostess Marina Baranovic. © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

There are many styles of labyrinths and they have been around for centuries.  There are nine celestial labyrinths; The labyrinth of life and death – Saturn labyrinth; Rahu Labyrinth – the labyrinth of transformation; The labyrinth of freedom – Ketu labyrinth; Sun labyrinth – the labyrinth of power; Moon labyrinth – the labyrinth of feelings; Mars labyrinth – the labyrinth of energy; Mercury labyrinth – the labyrinth of connection; The labyrinth of wisdom – Jupiter labyrinth; The labyrinth of love and creation – Venus labyrinth.

On the outskirts of Sibenik, away from the crowds of the city center, is a parcel of land which once belonged to Marina Baranovic’s parents, who farmed this land.  Marina’s family still uses the land to grow olives and other food items but Marina wanted to do more with the land and she wanted to leave a legacy to her town that would stand the test of time.  She felt that building two labyrinths was a good use for the land, and a good gift to the people of Croatia.

There are two labyrinths here. The first is the Labyrinth of Wisdom which reduces dishonesty and wrong judgment; removes ignorance, prejudices and possessiveness; reveals the purpose of life and gives wisdom, knowledge and happiness.

The labyrinths were designed by Adrian Predrag Kezele.

The labyrinths were designed by Adrian Predrag Kezele. © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

The second is the Labyrinth of Contact which reveals the hidden abilities; makes visible what was invisible; connects what was separated and enables us to understand the secrets of the Universe.

The Labyrinth of Contact - walk them both to boost their power.

The Labyrinth of Contact – walk them both to boost their power. © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

Putting the two labyrinths in the same area boosts their power (as per Ganesha: Lord of Success).  One simply begins at the beginning and walks the labyrinths while contemplating and asking for enlightenment or fulfillment.  Once you reach the middle you return the way you came.  These two labyrinths have a beginning, middle and an end.  They are free to see and open to the public year round.  This is a very special gift to the people of not only Sibenik, to the people of Croatia, but also to the world.

Our day continued.  Driving though town and out into the countryside we drove up a hill lined with the Stations of the Cross.  At the top of the hill stands the remnant of the medieval town of Vrana.  The views of Vrana Lake from this vantage point are unmatched and even on a cloudy day the vista that unfolded before us was breathtaking.  From as early as 1070 Vrana had become one of the most important centers of political life in Croatia.  The land was given by the church to the Knights Templar in the 12th Century (one of three religious orders to be given the land over time) and it was rumored that they buried their treasure somewhere on the land.  Today there are remnants of past buildings on site; a rebuilt small chapel and picnic tables so that families can come and spend the day exploring and learning more about this interesting part of Croatian history.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

The views from the top of the hill are unmatched. © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

There are picnic tables here for families to come and spend some time exploring and enjoying the view. © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Our crazy friends were enjoying the view from the edge of the cliff. © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Any excuse to take a photo of us we take it! © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

Our last gift to be unwrapped came at Vransko Jezero or Black Crow Lake located on Lake Vrana, the largest natural lake in Croatia.  This is one of the protected areas of Croatia and the dominant feature of the park is the ornithological reserve, an almost untouched natural habitat for birds; a rare wetland system full of biodiversity. The lake provides an ample amount of fish for fishermen (pike, tench, carp).  Here locals and bird watching enthusiasts from around the world spend hours enjoying not only the beauty of the area but also in seeing some of the unique birds that inhabit this area.  We were there during winter so the water table was higher than in summer when the water comes up and around the walkway but the water was shallow and in some places only inches deep.  This natural lake is even more amazing when one realizes that it is 3 miles long and only 15 feet deep which makes every part of this lake accessible as a feeding ground.

Local bird watching expert Leonardo Grubelic led our tour.  In addition to enjoying bird watching, Leo spends approximately 10 days every summer here on the lake finding new species of birds and categorizing them for future research and bird watchers.  He imparted that the best time to bird watch is actually in winter so we were there during the best time of year.  It was quiet and the day was beautiful and only one other person came to enjoy the view.  Vrana Lake (Vransko Jezero) is also an important migratory location for birds.  Not only does it offer a lush environment for the birds but it is a good resting point for them as they travel both north and south.  Leo reported that 150 species of birds use this area for migration but more than 250 bird species have been seen here.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Reeds grow on a gently sloping terrain in shallow water. Conditions such as these are excellent for many species of birds which use the reeds as protection from other predators. © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Our local bird watching expert Leonardo Grubelic gave us some insight into the world of bird watchers. © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

The walkway out to the main bid watching site is over a mile long. © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

One of the main bird watching stations. © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

This area is protected as a Park of Nature. © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

We were quiet as possible since this area is home to over 150 species of birds but over 250 species use this area on their migration paths from north to south and back again. © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

As our sightseeing, hiking and bird watching tour of Vrana Lake and its surroundings ended one thought stood out for me.  If I hadn’t been with a local guide I would never have enjoyed my exploration as much.  There is so much more to Sibenik than St. James Cathedral and old town Sibenik, and on this day we got to see more of what makes this area special and why we chose to live in it if even for a short time.  From walking the Labyrinth of Wisdom, to exploring the cliffs overlooking Vrana Lake to the experience of visiting the bird watching sanctuary with an expert we learned more about this region than many people take the time to learn.  And we made some new friends along the way, which to me was the best gift of all.

Florence Lince

www.6monthers.com

 

Author’s Note: This special day was arranged by Tina Vickov, Owner of Sibenik Plus Tourist Agency and Biljana Lambasa, Owner of Personal Insider Tours (Zagreb, Croatia).  Click on their names to learn more about them and to book directly with them.  Bird watching tours with Leonardo Grubelic can be arranged via Tina Vickov.

 

The Secrets of Sibenik

Or If These Walls Could Talk

Anyone can get a guide book and a map and walk around a strange city.  The problem with this approach is that you are bound to miss something truly amazing and those guide books are only as good as the person who wrote them and how well they did their research.  Sometimes it is best to hire a guide to learn the secrets of a place that only a local would know.

On a beautiful winter day recently we did just this walking around the city of Sibenik with Tina Vickov, owner of Sibenik Plus Tourism Agency and Tina Bilus (a licensed guide for Sibenik County) who gave us some of the inside scoop on the city we have been calling home.  What we found out was that even after being here for several months we had more to learn.

The most famous landmark of Sibenik is the Cathedral of St. James (Sr. Jakov) that sits at the top of a staircase and affords a spectacular view of the waterfront.  On a bright and sunny day this view cannot be beat.  One of the greatest lies told about the Cathedral by tour guides who do not really know this city is that the bell tower where you hear the bells chiming from can no longer be seen.  In actuality there never was a bell tower and the bells you hear ringing on the hour are from a CD that plays over a loud speaker.

The patron saint of Sibenik is St. Michael who is one of the three statues at the top of the Cathedral dome.  He stands with St. Philip and St. Nicholas.

The patron saint of Sibenik is St. Michael who is one of the three statues at the top of the Cathedral dome. He stands with St. Philip and St. Nicholas. © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

What is true however is that the Cathedral made it onto the UNESCO World Heritage site because of two special factors.  One is in its construction.  There is not one nail, stud or other device holding the structure together.  There is also no plaster or glue or cement used to hold the cathedral together.  The stones used were carved by artisans in Split and then assembled here.  These pieces are interlocking and so tight that you couldn’t slip a piece of paper between the blocks.  It is an amazing architectural achievement considering the Cathedral was built in the early 14th Century.

There are hidden treasures all over the outside of this Cathedral.  You need to spend as much time exploring the outside as the inside.

There are hidden treasures all over the outside of this Cathedral. You need to spend as much time exploring the outside as the inside. © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

The other unique feature of this church is found on the outside.  There are 75 ‘faces’ along the back arch.  What makes these faces unique is that they are carvings of local citizens of the town of Sibenik from that time period and not royalty or wealthy patrons of the arts.  It was the first example of sculptures of ordinary citizens.  What is also unique is that not one of the statues looks at one another, every one is made so that they are looking sideways or ahead or up but never at the looker or at another face on the wall.  It is an interesting portrait of what the locals looked like back in the 14th Century.

Some of the 'faces' that adorn the outside of the Cathedral.

Some of the ‘faces’ that adorn the outside of the Cathedral. © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

In the same square as the Cathedral is a building with three columns.  The middle column is known as the Column of Shame.  It was attached to this column that those that broke the law would be bound so that the entire village could see their shame.  There are no markings or posters to this affect near the square.

The middle one is the Column of Shame

The middle one is the Column of Shame. © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

The city of Sibenik was under Roman rule for over 400 years.  Wandering the streets you come upon this jut out in the wall of one building with the moniker, Amor De Cani (for the love of dogs) and yes, it is a well filled with water for the dogs that run around the city.  We have never seen it dry.

For The Love of Dogs

For The Love of Dogs © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

Other Special Secrets of Sibenik

Always look up. These columns can be found on some of the buildings in Old Town Sibenik.  At the top of the columns sometimes you can find shields engraved.  This column tells you that the family who used to own the building were of nobility.

Always look up. These columns can be found on some of the buildings in Old Town Sibenik. At the top of the columns sometimes you can find shields engraved. This column tells you that the family who used to own the building were of nobility. © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

One of Sibenik most famous artists is Ali Guberina.  He has had 39 exhibitions around the world and had been presented to Pope John Paul II after doing a sculpture of the Pope.

One of Sibenik most famous artists is Ali Guberina. He has had 39 exhibitions around the world and had been presented to Pope John Paul II after doing a sculpture of the Pope. © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

There are 17 church's within the streets of the Old City of Sibenik. This one was given to the Orthodox Church by Napoleon.  It is only open during the summer for the tourists coming from Russia.

There are 17 church’s within the streets of the Old City of Sibenik. This one was given to the Orthodox Church by Napoleon. It is only open during the summer for the tourists coming from Russia. © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

This was the first city water pipe in Sibenik. There used to be six of them scattered around the city.  This one still works.

This was the first city water pipe in Sibenik. There used to be six of them scattered around the city. This one still works. © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

If you ask a local where "Greasy Street" is located they will know exactly where you are talking.  This street is where all of the butcher shops were located and where street vendors made food.  Today it is lined with clothing stores and cafes.  The stone walkway is really shiny however.

If you ask a local where “Greasy Street” is located they will know exactly where you are talking. This street is where all of the butcher shops were located and where street vendors made food. Today it is lined with clothing stores and cafes. The stone walkway is really shiny however. © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

This appetizing little array consists of a bottle of liquor made with Maraska Cherries.  How famous are these local cherries?  This liquor was served on the Titanic.

This appetizing little array consists of a bottle of liquor made with Maraska Cherries. How famous are these local cherries? This liquor was served on the Titanic. © Photo by Florence Ricchiazzi Lince

Not everyone has the luxury of time that we have to spend countless hours learning more about a place and walking the same streets over and over again only to discover something new every time we do so.  I get that.  But what good is a secret if you don’t tell anyone that secret!  I know these are no longer secrets now, which means we’ll just keep walking until we find more secrets…to share.

Florence Lince

www.6monthers.com

Croatia

It Feels Like Home…and Yet…

As we leave Croatia and look forward to our move to Spain I take a minute or two to reflect on the Croatia I came to know, and love.

The Good

From the first I felt at home here.  From the first greeting; the first meal; the first excursion, I felt at home.  Croatia and its people are very familiar to me and I’d never been here before.

My family comes from Sicily and when I told everyone here how familiar everything seemed to me using this as a reference there were some who were offended.  I meant no offense.  I had stumbled upon an old feeling of historic resentment between Croatia and Italy because of centuries of domination under Italian rule.  I am extremely proud of my heritage and to me comparing these two countries meant that what I found here in Croatia was good people with good hearts; great food with flavor and presence; beautiful scenery and a grand history.  These are all things that I hold dear and finding them here was a nice surprise and a pleasure.  I chose to live in Croatia before I lived in Sicily so that alone should speak volumes.

The Bad

Sometimes living in a country as we do for extended periods of time we learn way more about a country than just a casual visitor.  Take Croatia for instance.  We have learned that some people spend a lot of time in being jealous of their neighbors who are doing well.  Businesses where locals try to get ahead and do well are looked upon with suspicion.  Local government is not a purveyor of growth but most jobs are gotten by who pays for the privilege of having that job.  Then when they get into that job they do nothing to build or foster growth for all the citizens but to line their own pockets with money.  This leads to an environment of every man for themselves instead of team building.  We have seen this type of political environment in third world countries and it is never good to keep the masses as the poorest of the poor because when they rise up against you, you have no solid footing to stand upon.  Croatia needs leadership in all areas where the people have a say and a government that works for them, not in spite of them.  They need teamwork and cooperation between agencies and companies not jealousy and suspicion.

Croatia has a lot to offer the world and the world is beginning to come here.  What is not happening however is that the many are not receiving the benefits of these visitors; the few are.  What those at the top fail to acknowledge, as they pocket more and more money, is that everyone in Croatia at one time or another comes into contact with a tourist.  And if they treat those tourists badly; if they give Croatia a bad reputation, then no one here is going to make any money.  Make all the people of Croatia benefit from the influx of tourism coming here and then Croatia will flourish.  Will there be a leader among the generations who will lead this change in Croatia or will the status quo hold?  I hope it changes, for everyone’s benefit.

I will be watching.

Florence Lince

http://www.about.me/florencelince

Authors Note: I have created a short video of the highlights of our time in Sibenik, Country, Croatia.  The people in Sibenik opened their hearts to us and we will forever be grateful.  I had also wanted to create a video using the traditional music of Croatia known as Klapa.  Recently a young group of musicians known as Klapa Adriaticum performed a selection of songs at a post Christmas gathering on the waterfront in Sibenik.  I approached their manager and with his permission created my video with their music.  I hope you will enjoy it.

We wish to make special mention of the following people who made our time in Sibenik and Croatia so wonderful.  We will miss you all.

Nina Belamarić our landlady and friend. She took care of me when I got sick and in general was our best source for information on Sibenik. Thank you, thank you.

Tina Vickov, owner of Sibenik Plus Tourism Agency; another new friend who made sure that we saw and experienced more of this area than most tourists.  We are happy she entered our lives.  We will stay in touch.

Biljana Lambasa, owner of Personal Insider; another new friend who engineered some great travel experiences for us coming all the way from Zagreb to do so. Thank you Biljana.

And to our friends Lea Brezar and Manuela Tunjić from Dhar Media; we would never have Discovered Croatia without you and we will be forever grateful. Hugs to you both.